The rains lashing down, thunder and lightning clap overhead, the palm trees are saggin' under the weight of the water. Lying here in my hammock overllooking the valley and the river tumbling along its hard to believe i still feel sweaty in the humid jungle.
Its also hard to belive that 9 years earlier the very same river Im staying beside washed away the entire village killing 280 people in the process.. Why am I here? Orangutan 'orang - person/man' 'utan - jungle'. I was due to visit Ketambe but have not got the time needed so to Bukit Lawang I came.
I picked my guide and chose the 2 day 1 night in the jungle option. IT could easily have been done in 1 day. The guide was was very talkative and fun both during and after the jungle trek, but especially entertaining at night with various tricks and games to keep us occupied. Thre trekking itself was not too difficult. There were times when O was on all fours or on my ass.
As for the orangutans themselves, it's a tourist trap. The apes still come to the humans as they did when in captivity. They are not at all wild!! You need to go further into the jungle to see the ones that are wild... I saw 3, 2 were very close and frieendly, the 3rd was high up in the canopy which was great as it gave us hte illusion of what they are like.
Am guessing that with all the trekking the ones that are a little wild stay the hell away from Dodge. I would definitely recommend going elsewhere(Ketambe) to see wildlife as this trip was a touristy one. It's much more a case of Bukit Lawang being for conveniance sake than anything else.
Friday, October 21, 2011
Tuesday, October 11, 2011
Danau Toba, heaven even with the tremors
So after Quakechurch and all the shakings there, I arrive at Danau Toba the site of the largest explosion ever encountered on Earth. It's a super-volcano which last tore the Earth apart ~70,000 years ago.
Why do I mention this? Because there have been numerous tremors here, nothing massive but in the eyes of this semi-knowledgeable guy the tremors may have been a 4.0.
Some more insight into the area regarding that massive eruption, some theorists believe that the eruption killed most humans alive at that time that affected the genetics of who we are today..
Sitting atop the cone which has risen 450m since the eruption due to magma buildup below....
Wednesday, October 5, 2011
Java: The Good, The bad and The Ugly
So 2 weeks without a post... me bad!!! I lost myself for a while in Bali partying with Bert & Cynthia.
Lets start with
The Bad..
I did however leave Bali 2 months ago and headed to Bromo where I was met by the Bromo Jeep Mafia... Bromo was spectacular, defo worth the hassle and effort with tourist office touts and the like. They have a little cartel going on there as it's a small town and no outsiders can run the tours(thats what it seems like to me). Overpricing is rife there and blatant asking for tips when none is necessary.
The Ugly
Once Bromo was out of the way I was glad to be rid of the mafia and headed to Jogyakarta where lo and behold they have their own Batik mafia... A long long story. basically a tout picks you up on the street and they say there is a special exhibition at a "Government" sanctioned center. This turns out to be a non-descript gallery. The display is only available for 2 days so"you should buy now". They ask for a ridiculous price and you get it for half the asking price but still this can mean that the price is 3 times the reasonable price.. Solution Go to the tourist police who deal with this problem on a regular basis.
What really got to me was that everywhere myself and Brian went the locals kept saying "Irish" your problem solved??? Everyone was in on it, they all bring tourists to the same places and try to rip them off by lying through their teeth..
The Good
Time to leave Jogya, splashed out on a fancy mini-bus with plenty of leg-room. First of all the bus was an hour and a half late. Secondly the bus was already full and I was told I had to sit in the front of a minibus to Jakarta with 2 drivers beside me. A journey which turned out to be 16 hours long including a 2 hour breakdown. I hit the roof but eventually thought I want to get out of here so I'd have to just grin and bear it(I didn't grin though) Half way there 1 of the local jakarta peeps said he could swap with me...I could not believe it and because of that little gesture my opinion of the Java people has greatly improved...
Wednesday, September 14, 2011
Local News
Just thought I'd like to give you an insight into what makes the Jakarta Post newspaper on a Tuesday. Here are 2 highlights.
KAI claims success in Idul Fitri operation
Despite a 100% delay record, state reailway operator PT Kereta Api Indonesia(KAI) says it performed well over the Idul Fitri(Muslim holiday that marks the end of Ramadan) holiday exodus, during which it transported more than 2.5M passengers.
100% delay record. Smashing stuff eh
Sighting of pocong reported in Tanah Kusir
A pocong was reportedly sighted causing panis among residents. Residents attempted to capture the elusive pocong but, so far their efforts have failed. "The ghost terrified housewives the most. Once they hear a knock on the door, they are afraid that it could be the pocong"
Local police have said that there is little they can do to help but have urged residents to keep calm.
A pocong is an Indonesian/Malaysian ghost [1] that is said to be the soul of a dead person trapped in their suit. The pocong suit (shroud, in Indonesia/Malaysia also known as kain kafan) [2] is used by Muslims to cover the body of the dead person. They cover the dead body with white fabric and tie the clothing over the head, under the feet, and on the neck. According to the native beliefs, the soul of a dead person will stay on the earth for 40 days after the death. When the ties aren't released after 40 days, the body is said to jump out from the grave to warn people that the soul need the bonds to be released. After the ties are released, the soul will leave the earth and never show up anymore. Because of the tie under the feet, the ghost can't walk. This causes the pocong to hop
KAI claims success in Idul Fitri operation
Despite a 100% delay record, state reailway operator PT Kereta Api Indonesia(KAI) says it performed well over the Idul Fitri(Muslim holiday that marks the end of Ramadan) holiday exodus, during which it transported more than 2.5M passengers.
100% delay record. Smashing stuff eh
Sighting of pocong reported in Tanah Kusir
A pocong was reportedly sighted causing panis among residents. Residents attempted to capture the elusive pocong but, so far their efforts have failed. "The ghost terrified housewives the most. Once they hear a knock on the door, they are afraid that it could be the pocong"
Local police have said that there is little they can do to help but have urged residents to keep calm.
A pocong is an Indonesian/Malaysian ghost [1] that is said to be the soul of a dead person trapped in their suit. The pocong suit (shroud, in Indonesia/Malaysia also known as kain kafan) [2] is used by Muslims to cover the body of the dead person. They cover the dead body with white fabric and tie the clothing over the head, under the feet, and on the neck. According to the native beliefs, the soul of a dead person will stay on the earth for 40 days after the death. When the ties aren't released after 40 days, the body is said to jump out from the grave to warn people that the soul need the bonds to be released. After the ties are released, the soul will leave the earth and never show up anymore. Because of the tie under the feet, the ghost can't walk. This causes the pocong to hop
Tuesday, September 13, 2011
Its a small world
It's amazing how small the world is..
Basically I met Bert in university 10 years ago or so and once again for the last time about 3-4 years ago. At that stage he had worked for Concern in Indonesia and had just been offered mega bucks with an oil or gas company to go work for them, and that was the last of that as far as contact with Bert goes.
2 weeks ago on the Gili islands I met an Indonesian girl who I have since met up with again in Bali, we get talking about her mate; a French guy who's visiting, described as a small French guy used to do charity work in Indonesia, I ask whats his name? Bertrand says she, and I think it can't really be Bert. Did he study in Ireland for a year? No idea she replies.
Have you got a picture? She gets the phone out and there's Bert's drunken face from the night before... What a small world!!!
Out of 20 odd million French people, 4 million Irish and 250 million Indonesian all 3 of us met completely separately at different times and are all within 50km of each other at that exact moment...
Basically I met Bert in university 10 years ago or so and once again for the last time about 3-4 years ago. At that stage he had worked for Concern in Indonesia and had just been offered mega bucks with an oil or gas company to go work for them, and that was the last of that as far as contact with Bert goes.
2 weeks ago on the Gili islands I met an Indonesian girl who I have since met up with again in Bali, we get talking about her mate; a French guy who's visiting, described as a small French guy used to do charity work in Indonesia, I ask whats his name? Bertrand says she, and I think it can't really be Bert. Did he study in Ireland for a year? No idea she replies.
Have you got a picture? She gets the phone out and there's Bert's drunken face from the night before... What a small world!!!
Out of 20 odd million French people, 4 million Irish and 250 million Indonesian all 3 of us met completely separately at different times and are all within 50km of each other at that exact moment...
Flores, Wonderful Flores
WEll Flores is a beautiful place. They call it the volcano island and no wonder. To drive 250km you have to go over/around 3 volcanoes. The entire trip takes 10 hours in a bus. IT is seriously hard going, I've no idea how the vehicles take it as they look more like they'll fall apart than manage to get u to the destination intact.
It was all worthwhile as I visited 2 native villages where sacrifices are still performed to appease the Gods, but wait they are Christian... it works though.
During my 20 hours on buses I shared them with chain smokers, puking children, breast feeding mothers and a Rooster...
Just when you think the buses are finished with you're faced with a 36 hour journey by ferry, bus, overnight bus, ferry, bus, bus, ferry and bus.. yep 36 hours of absolute torture. Buses in Indonesia are not designed with westerners in mind, especially westerners like myself over 6 foot tall.But oh how it was all worth it once I woke up the following day in glorious Ubud where I've since been relaxing and taking it easy.
A selection of pics on facebook
Monday, September 5, 2011
Dragons, Boats, Swimming, Snorkelling & Jungle Jack
For 4 days and nights I spent my time leisurely relaxing on a tugboat of sorts. They say they aren't luxurious and that's putting it politely. Luckily the group on the boat were grand, including the star attraction Jungle Jack(more on him later)
Along the way there was a 17 hour stretch of non-stop driving. Funny thing is I slept like a baby even though the boat was in open water and cresting waves like a lead anvil. There was some fantastic snorkeling along the way, plenty of swimming, a visit to a waterfall, fishing(caught a whopper) and a charming man we nicknamed Jungle Jack.
The trip culminated in a trip to Komodo & Rinca (Rincha) islands which make up Komodo National Park; the only place in the world to see the awesome sight that is the Komodo Dragon. They can grow up to 3m tall, they have poisonous saliva which WILL eventually kill anything it bites. They have 2 cocks!!! Was very jealous of the possibilities that that might eventuate.
Their main prey is water buffalo, deer and monkeys. A strong healthy buffalo will last 2-4 weeks b4 dying during which time the dragon simply waits for it's chance. They are also cannibalistic and will eat their own. Mother dragons actually eat their hatch-lings. 15-30 hatch and the ranger reckoned 5 would escape. It's a tough life and no wonder as during the dry season it's absolutely parched there and any movement at all brings out the sweats quicker than wearing a bear suit in a sauna.
1 disappointment I had was the fact that Komodo island seems to be manufactured. The watering holes actually have manholes and to a careful eye like my own there are pipes leading to these watering holes. Well at least they aren't still feeding live goats to the dragons anymore. Rinca however is much more natural. We came across loads of dragons during our bush-walk including 1 who decided he liked the look of OR smell of 1 of our party. None of the girls owned up to that time of the month but I have my doubts ;) dragons can smell blood 5 kilometers away.
And then as soon as it had started the boat trip was over and we landed in Labuanbajo, Flores where I was not eager to go through the same hassle from the locals. So off I headed to the ATM, head down not looking at anything, but it soon dawned on me that no-one was hassling me, in fact they all looked at me, smiled some said hello but I was totally left to my own devices. What a breath of fresh air. More power to you Flores. I actually was able to go int a shop and was allowed to browse without being swamped by the owner. What a turnaround from Bali and Gili T.
Today I've spent my day doing washing, relaxing in cafes and looking at transport options out of Flores sometime in the next week, unfortunately due to the end of Ramadan there's a massive backlog of flights and no way out for a week at extortionate prices. So I've resigned myself to a massive bus journey of 28 hours including 2 ferries, problem with this is that it's bloody full too. Anyway for the next few days I shall be exploring the interior of Flores on Chris my good Indonesian friends recommendation. If Labuanbajo is anything to go by I cannot wait.
Al pics up on bookFace
Along the way there was a 17 hour stretch of non-stop driving. Funny thing is I slept like a baby even though the boat was in open water and cresting waves like a lead anvil. There was some fantastic snorkeling along the way, plenty of swimming, a visit to a waterfall, fishing(caught a whopper) and a charming man we nicknamed Jungle Jack.
The trip culminated in a trip to Komodo & Rinca (Rincha) islands which make up Komodo National Park; the only place in the world to see the awesome sight that is the Komodo Dragon. They can grow up to 3m tall, they have poisonous saliva which WILL eventually kill anything it bites. They have 2 cocks!!! Was very jealous of the possibilities that that might eventuate.
Their main prey is water buffalo, deer and monkeys. A strong healthy buffalo will last 2-4 weeks b4 dying during which time the dragon simply waits for it's chance. They are also cannibalistic and will eat their own. Mother dragons actually eat their hatch-lings. 15-30 hatch and the ranger reckoned 5 would escape. It's a tough life and no wonder as during the dry season it's absolutely parched there and any movement at all brings out the sweats quicker than wearing a bear suit in a sauna.
1 disappointment I had was the fact that Komodo island seems to be manufactured. The watering holes actually have manholes and to a careful eye like my own there are pipes leading to these watering holes. Well at least they aren't still feeding live goats to the dragons anymore. Rinca however is much more natural. We came across loads of dragons during our bush-walk including 1 who decided he liked the look of OR smell of 1 of our party. None of the girls owned up to that time of the month but I have my doubts ;) dragons can smell blood 5 kilometers away.
And then as soon as it had started the boat trip was over and we landed in Labuanbajo, Flores where I was not eager to go through the same hassle from the locals. So off I headed to the ATM, head down not looking at anything, but it soon dawned on me that no-one was hassling me, in fact they all looked at me, smiled some said hello but I was totally left to my own devices. What a breath of fresh air. More power to you Flores. I actually was able to go int a shop and was allowed to browse without being swamped by the owner. What a turnaround from Bali and Gili T.
Today I've spent my day doing washing, relaxing in cafes and looking at transport options out of Flores sometime in the next week, unfortunately due to the end of Ramadan there's a massive backlog of flights and no way out for a week at extortionate prices. So I've resigned myself to a massive bus journey of 28 hours including 2 ferries, problem with this is that it's bloody full too. Anyway for the next few days I shall be exploring the interior of Flores on Chris my good Indonesian friends recommendation. If Labuanbajo is anything to go by I cannot wait.
Al pics up on bookFace
Monday, August 29, 2011
Gili Islands
After a torturous 10 hour journey in 30+ heat with no air con I arrived at the beautiful Gili Islands on an old wooden boat.
What a place these islands are. No concrete, cars, motorbikes a great place to relax. Surrounded by coral all there is warums(restaurants), losmens(guesthouses) a few bars and not many people.. Three full days of bliss on Gili Air where sunsets were viewed stories exchanged and the odd beer consumed. The food I might add was unreal, freshly caught smoky barbequed fish by the stack-load.
Gili Islands on the horizon
Not a bad place for sunset
1 dark spot is the odd fact that there is a crystal meth problem there which to a casual observer is limited to weed and magic mushies. The islands are not policed officially so it is up to the locals to self govern, allowing this awful turn of events. The Government actually raided the island a month before I arrived. Paranoid locals reckon there are police still there but in plainclothes.
My only interactions were with a dealer trying to sell me some and my landlord who was whacked off his head one evening. It was fun trying to settle the accommodation bill with him. I wonder where that money will go?? Very sad for the island and I hope it does not spiral out of control.
What a place these islands are. No concrete, cars, motorbikes a great place to relax. Surrounded by coral all there is warums(restaurants), losmens(guesthouses) a few bars and not many people.. Three full days of bliss on Gili Air where sunsets were viewed stories exchanged and the odd beer consumed. The food I might add was unreal, freshly caught smoky barbequed fish by the stack-load.
Gili Islands on the horizon
Not a bad place for sunset
1 dark spot is the odd fact that there is a crystal meth problem there which to a casual observer is limited to weed and magic mushies. The islands are not policed officially so it is up to the locals to self govern, allowing this awful turn of events. The Government actually raided the island a month before I arrived. Paranoid locals reckon there are police still there but in plainclothes.
My only interactions were with a dealer trying to sell me some and my landlord who was whacked off his head one evening. It was fun trying to settle the accommodation bill with him. I wonder where that money will go?? Very sad for the island and I hope it does not spiral out of control.
Monday, August 22, 2011
Bali
After 15 hours or so on a plane with a French couple comatose in the seats beside me I was beginning to feel fairly knarky to say the least. Clouds were obscuring the view until in the distance I spotted something. As i came close I realised it was a massive volcano crater serenely jutting out of the clouds. What a sight Gunung Bromo is!! Some quick calculations and I reckoned I'd be atop the crater 3 weeks later. Can't wait.
Bali... airport a mess, got a taximan down from 100,000 to 70,000 and proceeded into Kuta/Legian beaches. The madness on the roads was something else. What a shock to the senses once I started to wander around. Smells, sights and all sorts. Being jet-lagged I felt a bit disheartened as it was complete chaos all round. The next day was however a massive improvement. There's such a positive vibe in the lpace, the locals are all selling or trying to sell you some sort of tick or tack!!
So that evening I grabbed some food and found a smallish bar where I met a Belfast man who has lived in OZ for 35 years. Had a great ole chat with him and lots of banter with the bargirls who were amazingly friendly and helpful.As the bar was shutting I was invited to a [party in one of the girls blocks. I've recently read Yesman so it had to be a yes. Unfortunately ther locals are wearly risers and early sleepers. By 12 they were all in bed or close to it. So I had to settle for a couple of quiet beers and some smoked fish, mussels and rice. I love all the seafood they have hear and have decided against listening to how they prepare it..;)
Got dropped off about 3 in the morning and fell straight into a mild coma to awake with a deathly feeling about me. It was only then I remembered I had booked surfing lessons for high noon. But I did manage to catch a few waves and took immense satisfaction and slight bemusement that my tutor was unable to ride 2 waves when he tried "to show me how it was done" 1-0 Murphy.
But disaster almost struck when my right foot slid off the board and my left (recently repaired knee) stayed where it was. I was never meant to be a gymnast lets put it that way. So my tendons around the knee and hammies hurt like fuckers, maybe a massage may be in order!! What a place to start surfing though 30 degrees, hundreds of fellow surfers and nice big, long consistent waves. Surfing is MASSIVE in Kuta and no wonder.
Next stop Padangbai..
Bali... airport a mess, got a taximan down from 100,000 to 70,000 and proceeded into Kuta/Legian beaches. The madness on the roads was something else. What a shock to the senses once I started to wander around. Smells, sights and all sorts. Being jet-lagged I felt a bit disheartened as it was complete chaos all round. The next day was however a massive improvement. There's such a positive vibe in the lpace, the locals are all selling or trying to sell you some sort of tick or tack!!
So that evening I grabbed some food and found a smallish bar where I met a Belfast man who has lived in OZ for 35 years. Had a great ole chat with him and lots of banter with the bargirls who were amazingly friendly and helpful.As the bar was shutting I was invited to a [party in one of the girls blocks. I've recently read Yesman so it had to be a yes. Unfortunately ther locals are wearly risers and early sleepers. By 12 they were all in bed or close to it. So I had to settle for a couple of quiet beers and some smoked fish, mussels and rice. I love all the seafood they have hear and have decided against listening to how they prepare it..;)
Got dropped off about 3 in the morning and fell straight into a mild coma to awake with a deathly feeling about me. It was only then I remembered I had booked surfing lessons for high noon. But I did manage to catch a few waves and took immense satisfaction and slight bemusement that my tutor was unable to ride 2 waves when he tried "to show me how it was done" 1-0 Murphy.
But disaster almost struck when my right foot slid off the board and my left (recently repaired knee) stayed where it was. I was never meant to be a gymnast lets put it that way. So my tendons around the knee and hammies hurt like fuckers, maybe a massage may be in order!! What a place to start surfing though 30 degrees, hundreds of fellow surfers and nice big, long consistent waves. Surfing is MASSIVE in Kuta and no wonder.
Next stop Padangbai..
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